A hedge trimmer is a real advantage and saves a lot of time over hand shears or bush trimmers. You really will have to trim holdall pushes by hand and also the other thing about hedge trimmer is it makes the bushes a lot neater as well. So in this article we need to take a good look at all of the best hedge trimmers out there and which one would suit you the best. Some Gardens so going to be far more suited to a cordless hedge trimmers whilst others would require a corded or even a petrol hedge trimmer to get the job done so we’ll take a look at all of the best and options and how you can save money in the process.
The most common hedge trimmer these days is a cordless electric hedge trimmer. This is because he has extremely decent power and will last a decent amount of time whilst delivering really comfortable usability and not having to have a power lead trailing behind you. One of the best things about cordless electricity is the fact that it’s technology is advancing an extremely rapid rate because of all of the other advancements in battery power. This means that even items like hedge trimming can be done with a cordless battery extremely easily. It’s such an advantage to not have to store petrol or have a power lead trailing behind you. It’s so dangerous to have power leads all over the show especially if it’s wet or damp day because this can lead to safety issues as well. That makes the cordless electric hedge trimmer the absolute go to item really in a typical household garden.
One of the most important things to remember with a the best cordless hedge trimmers is to keep the blade in tip-top condition and sharp. Because the powers actually less than corded or petrol it means that having sharp blade will counteract the lack of power. It also means that you can go for a slightly cheaper and less branded version that will give you similar quality results and help you get your hedges trimmed really quickly and neatly.
One of the biggest advantages to an electric power corded hedge trimmer the fact that they were extremely cheap in terms of pound for the pound. Obviously the downside is that you have to have a power lead running around and that’s always here seriously disadvantage especially if you have kids or animals that perhaps could potentially injure themselves which means extra care needs to be taken.
That said, it’s far more important to actually have a hedge trimmer than not and so therefore I would definitely recommend having yourself and electric hedge trimmer over not having a trimmer at all.
Interestingly, if you are thinking about buying hedge trimmer that it might be worth buying a shredder as well because of shredder means that you can put all those branches into the shredder and create mulch. Mulch is extremely good for the garden because it helps you to retain moisture as well as in the end creating high quality compost ending means that the soil will be far less compacted and far better quality overall. This means you’ll be able to grow far better plants and vegetables as a result of having a hedge trimmer as well as a shredder is extremely beneficial thing for your garden.
To recap though, I would definitely go with a cordless hedge trimmer because they’re extremely good value for money with the current battery technology and they make life so easy because you don’t have to worry about any power leads and it results in saving an epic amount of time in your garden.
For trees that need support, we supply a 120 cm stake, tree-tie, and a rabbit/strimmer guard, free of charge. We send you full instructions for planting, including a picture diagram. All you’ll need is a spade and a hammer.
Follow our recommendations to ensure your tree flourishes.
Container-grown trees can be planted at any time of the year, however if you plant your trees in the summer, you should ensure to keep them watered in the drier months.
It’s advisable to keep a bare circle of earth around the tree for the first three years so water can reach the roots. You can add a layer of mulch which helps to keep moisture in and also acts as food as it breaks down, however keep a space between the mulch and the base of the tree.
Check and adjust the ties in spring and autumn as the tree grows. You should be able to remove the stake after two seasons, when the tree is established.
Enjoy the result! Your tree should reward you with years of pleasure and beauty if you take the time to prepare its site, plant it securely and care for it in its early stages
It’s been a little while since I posted something here but I guess that’s just a nod to the fact it’s Spring. Everything wants to get growing and the allotment is dictating how I spend most of my spare time at the moment, well that and life in general. Everything is bursting into action and plants, with weeds included, are keen to get growing. Of course, this is no hardship. In truth, this is utter unadulterated enjoyment.
This year, much like the last, I’ve taken to growing most of my vegetables and flowers in toilet roll tubes. It seems like perfect logic to save what we already have but what’s more is that it works fantastically well. Beans and sweet peas are big fans of this treatment and I know that later in the year the sweet corn will also be equally appreciative. I’ve managed to rope my family in to saving these for me and despite thinking that I’m mad at the start they’ve now come round to the idea. The tubes are planted directly in to the soil when the plants are ready to go out in to the garden and they then decompose gradually. In addition to this I’m sowing all of my seed in to compost that I receive free from the council as a result of our food and garden waste disposal.
There seems to be a lot of wincing about this when I talk with other gardeners and allotmenteers but in truth it’s worked really well so far. I’d imagine there would be some trouble sowing very fine seed but the compost I’ve picked up has sieved easily and actually makes a nice medium to sow in to. So far I’ve sown broad beans, runner beans, sunflowers, oriental spinach, Nero di Toscana, cabbage, sweet peas, Siberian onions, parsnips and beetroot and everything has grown very well. The Cabbage seedling above is an example of many of the seedlings currently sitting in my front garden grown using the compost mentioned.
Today it was time to plant the runner beans. This year I’ve decided to make a feature of the runner beans and I’m growing a cultivar called ‘St George’, which has beautiful red and white flowers, with Ipomoea lobata, commonly known as Spanish Flag. Over the course of the year I’ll be updating you all on the progress of my beans. I was surprised to find out that only 12% of households bought Runner Beans during the 2010 season, a decline of 22.7%. Surely they are one of the best tastes our British Summer provides? If you’ve decided against growing these plants or are unsure about them then I’d urge you to give them a try.
In other news, the chickens appear to be enjoying the increase in daylight and recent cooler temperatures. This has been reflected in the number and size of the eggs they’re laying and today I collected my first 80g egg. They’re also enjoying eating lots of comfrey, weeds and the last of the winter veg. The latter I find left by other plot holders in piles and bags by the coop. The girls are very grateful for this and adore eating their greens and rummaging through the leaves for bugs and other tit-bits.
I found that two of my Gooseberry bushes had fallen prey to Gooseberry sawfly larvae so do keep an eye out for this. These were swiftly removed and look set to contribute well to tomorrow’s eggs.
Oh yes! It’s also raining so no watering for me for a while then. . . I hope.
Now is the time of year to divide perennials that have outgrown their plot. Dig up the plant and with a spade divide it into 2 or more clumps depending on the size and then re-plant around the garden. A great way to get extra plants for free!
There’s an excellent choice in the garden centres and nurseries at the moment so you should find good quality bulbs. Try to plant by the end of September.
Cut stems with seed heads and place in a warm, dry place such as greenhouse or sunny windowsill. When dry, store the seeds in a paper envelope or small cardboard tubes (see our Seed Saver tubes) and store in the refrigerator or somewhere cool and dry until ready to be used.
Sweet peas have been a popular garden plant since first being introduced into England at the end of the 17th century and the original variety, Cupani, is still available.
A burst of hybridising at the end of the 19th century and early 20th century marked the development of the modern sweet pea, particularly the Spencer types.
Most Sweet Peas offered to the home gardener are Summer flowering. They need at least 12 hours daylight before they can flower. If sown too early the plants become very big before they flower. Winter and Spring flowering strains flower with 10 and 11 hours daylight respectively.
Generally sweet peas don’t enjoy being transplanted. Seed can be sown outdoors in a sunny, well drained site. In cold areas it would be best to wait now until spring. Sweet pea plants are available in garden centres, be careful when transplanting not to disturb the roots. If sowing seed it’s recommended to soak the seeds in water overnight to speed up the germination process.
Sweet peas prefer a sunny position away from strong blustery winds. Stake or provide support for taller growing varieties. Dwarf sweet peas need no staking so can be grown in an open area.
Once seedlings are about 5-10cm high pinch the tips to encourage strong side shoots. Sweet pea vines have tendrils and will attach themselves to most any type of support with meshing or lines.
Seed pods will appear in the autumn; seeds from these can be saved and sown for next season.
If you wish to accommodate birds in your pond garden, whether they are wild or pet birds, some preparations are necessary. A few changes are needed to make their stay easier and to maintain the biodiversity of the area.
When we create an ornamental pond or pool in the garden, the first thing we tend to think about is how to accommodate the fish – we usually forget about the birds.
This is a mistake, because even if we don’t want pet ornamental birds, the pond will inevitably attract wild birds.
Many birds, like wild geese, barnacle geese, ducks, herons and swans, like to gather around sources of water. It provides a place for them to swim, eat and drink.
The water source you create must therefore be prepared in order to prevent these birds from disturbing the balance of the biotope. For example, it is a good idea to install fencing above the shallow water near the banks in order to protect tadpoles. Failing to do this gives future frogs no hope of escaping the voracious appetite of passing birds.
If aquatic birds frequently visit your pond, it is recommended to cover the floor of the banks with pebbles or plastic covering. This avoids sludge from developing. When a duck drops by, it will not be tempted to look for food in the soil, as the mud it digs up dirties the water.
If the pond is frequented by a lot of wild birds, it is essential to install big fish, as small ones will quickly be devoured by the birds. The same precautions should be taken if you choose to have pet ornamental birds. You should also install a fence around the water to prevent your birds from escaping and to stop predators like the fox from dropping by for dinner !
There is a huge range of ornamental birds available. 160 varieties of duck are domesticated, ducks like mandarins, shovelers, shelducks, wigeons, pintails and wood ducks. Other birds like teals, and common and barnacle geese are also domesticated.
These birds don’t require much looking after. If you have a small pond, you may need to feed them from time to time. They should be treated for worms twice a year – this will keep them in good health and will preserve the quality of the water.
The secret of creating a successful garden pond lies in the ability to create a complex ecosystem in which insects play an important role, as they, unintentionally, provide essential food for fish and batrachians.
The slightest water source buzzes with life ! Whereas fish and plants can be installed by human effort, insects are put in place (almost) entirely by nature ! And nature is evidently well organised, as within a few weeks of the installation of a pond many types of insects inhabit the water. These insects, which are brought by the wind, provide an essential food source for the fish and batrachians in the pond – that is, if the pond has been well designed, of course ! To ensure that these insects survive, create a space for them – a pond should include a place where the water level is shallow, to protect them from adult fish. A similar space should be created for smaller, weakfish.
Mosquitos are generally the first insects to arrive. These insects, though not very pleasant for the fragile human skin, are very much welcomed by fish, as their larvae placed on the surface of the water provide delicious eating for healthy fish. Apart from mosquitoes, other insects, such as the graceful dragonfly, inhabit the area little by little. Detritivores, phytophages, insect-eating predators, as well as strictly aquatic species like water bugs and predaceous diving bugs will also be attracted to this humid area.
These insects will in turn attract batraciens and birds. Generally speaking, they preserve biodiversity without disturbing the internal harmony of the pond. But certain species should be kept under surveillance. The caterpillar of the lily moth (a small butterfly) and galerucinae (a small beetle) should be controlled as their larvae devour the leaves of aquatic plants.
Greenly should be “drowned” from time to time by simply plunging the infested leaves under water to protect the lilies from carnage. The greedy greenfly will immediately provide a feast for the nearby fish.
The wide variety of insects attracted by stagnant water ensures the ecological balance of the pond. To preserve this balance, ban all pesticides from the area.